How to build a silent PC or Home Theater PC
Step 1 - Choose your case.
Although the availability of small boxes with form-factor PC are becoming more widespread, as is the availability of small form factor motherboards and components, the options are as varied as the cases of standard size and components. You'll also find that small form factor components tend to be more expensive.
Next we had to deal with the problem etc.) closer together than then put more emphasis on cooling. While you could cool the small gear with large fans, then find another sound problem. Make sure your home theater PC teeny dick is smaller than a poodle puppy and is very close to your television, but generates the sound equivalent to a 747 during takeoff. Defeats the object I think you'll agree.
Ditch the dreams of an ultra small HTPC because it's only going to cause pain head. Me personally, I value functionality over aesthetics, with that in mind I went for a huge full tower PC case that was built for quiet operation and has the advantage of looking good too. I went for the Thermaltake Armor case in black. After a while you get used to it in the room and becomes part of everyday life. Do not forget that you do not have to put your HTPC case near your TV, you can put it away behind the sofa. If your case is going to be on the agenda is a good idea to choose components to match color-wise.
Step 2 - Choose your processor.
There are only 2 manufacturers of processors that you should consider, Intel and AMD. There are other chip makers, but are relatively rare and have a hard time trying to find components that are compatible. Personally I have always gone for AMD processors with free construction projects, carried out on par with Intel processors and are usually cheaper compared to the same equally with Intel chips. Your choice of processor speed is entirely up to you, some people like to go for the fastest they can afford, while true that you need a fairly fast processor need not go overboard if you are only using the Media Center PC in the lounge to watch television and listen to music. If you plan to use your Media Center PC for anything else, like gaming or video editing then you should really focus on buying a higher end model processor. Do not forget that although in general the faster the processor, the more heat it produces, and heat is the only thing we're trying to keep to a minimum due to cooling. In my HTPC I opted for an AMD Athlon XP 2400 +. This processor is not fast way to today's standards but does work well with Windows Media Center 2005 (and Windows Vista) and even manages quite well with games that run from time to time. This processor is really cheap now as it has been overcome, a quick search on eBay sees some XP 2400 + selling for under £ 40. If I were to build a new one right now would probably opt for a processor that could be a socket 940 motherboard, as this would ensure that the PC is upgradeable in the future should I need.
Step 3 - Choose your motherboard (or motherboard).
The plaque will be your key purchase can not be the most expensive, but choosing a motherboard prudently can maximize the performance of all other components to be attached to it. You do not want spend £ 200 on a processor which is not performing to their capabilities due to a bad choice on the motherboard 50 pounds is not it? Your choice of motherboard is determined mainly by the choice of processor. If you chose an AMD XP 2400 + processor as I have then you must choose a shot of a motherboard. If you has chosen a newer AMD processor as the AMD Sempron 3600 +, for example, then chances are you need a socket 940 motherboard. If you've chosen an Intel processor More recently, as the Pentium D 930 then you will most likely need a socket 775 motherboard. See the documentation that came with the processor manufacturer and tell taking on the motherboard that will fit into. Note that you must buy the right motherboard that matches your processor, otherwise the two do not fit into any case and that will be completely incompatible.
Now that you have determined that "taking" of the motherboard you need is time to shop around. Be sure to buy a chipset motherboard with a decent maker Nvidia (nforce), chipset, Intel or VIA (chipset motherboard controls the data traffic between the processor, memory and peripherals you have installed). If you plan to use your media Center PC mainly for watching TV and listening to music, then you might consider opting for a motherboard with onboard graphics (the graphics card from the motherboard), sound card on the motherboard, and on-board LAN / wireless card. This would enough to take care of most of the components they need all on one board. If you are going to use your Media Center to play at any point then my advice would be to choose a motherboard that has not been incorporated into the graphics card as the graphics card integrated into motherboards, although it will carry out the task of displaying video on a adequate, tend not to be so powerful when it comes to gambling. You can also choose to have a separate sound card that provides higher quality sound, it all depends how serious they are about the sound is coming from your HTPC, I think for most integrated sound would (tip: If going to a sound board or sound card separately, make sure it is capable of at least 5.1 surround sound for use when watching movies on DVD. Even if you are only using 2 speakers, these cards can be configured for 2-speaker output). In my HTPC I opted for the MSI K7N2 Delta-L takes a motherboard. It came with onboard LAN and onboard 5.1 sound but I decided to add a card sound separately for reasons disclosed later.
Step 4 - Select your hard drive (HDD).
This should be pretty easy. Basically, bigger is better. You want as much space as possible if you burn a lot of films and programs. There is tempted to models of 10,000 rpm hard drive, because although they are stronger and generate much heat, probably not notice much performance gain from using this type of hard drive in an environment of Media Center anyway. In my setup I went for the Maxtor DiamondMax 10 300GB 7200RPM IDE hard drive is enough space for all my recordings of movies and music, I I also use my Media Center PC as a file server for my other PC and laptop, so my suggestion is that around 300 GB of hard disk space will suffice. Be sure to choose the type of hard drive interface connection that fits your motherboard, that is, if your motherboard supports SATA interface to choose a hard disk also uses the SATA interface. Note that the two interfaces (SATA and IDE) are not interchangeable. The latest motherboards usually come with two integrated interfaces on the board so there should not be a problem.
Hard drives are also a major contributor to the noise and heat problem may be a wise idea to invest on a hard drive silencer cooling, I want my HTPC to be as quiet as possible so I went to the Scythe Quiet drive that is a hard drive silencer cold rolled into one.
Step 5 - Select the memory (RAM).
The main thing to look for when buying RAM (random access memory) is to ensure that is compatible with the motherboard you purchased. If the board says it supports DDR400 memory, this means that only supports RAM is Double Data Rate (DDR) and are only supported speeds up to 400MHz RAM (it has an operating speed in the well). In some cases, if a motherboard says it supports up to DDR400, it also implies that supported formats below it, for example, a DDR400 motherboard also support DDR333, DDR266, and DDR200 RAM modules. Note that you can not use in a DDR SDRAM interface and vice versa. Another thing to look for is if your motherboard supports dual channel RAM. The idea behind dual-channel RAM is to install 2 modules identical RAM in the motherboard that banks that are designated for Dual Channel Operation. Data coming from your processor is then effectively divided into 2 parts, Part 1 is sent to the RAM module first and the 2nd part is sent to the other RAM module. Because data is divided into 2 interwoven in a way this has the theoretical effect of doubling the read / write data sent to and from the processor. If this is the way you want to go with your HTPC then you should be looking dual channel kit of RAM. It should be noted that just because his mother claims to have dual channel capability, does not mean you have to use a dual channel kit memory RAM can only use 1 RAM module if desired, and can still do the job, but not as fast as could be. Once you have determined the velocity and the type of RAM you need is time to look at the amount of RAM you really need. Again, my advice is bigger is better, but not go over. I used a Corsair 1GB DDR 400 dual channel kit (2 identical modules of 512 MB of RAM) in my setup and runs perfectly.
Step - 6 Choose your DVD Drive.
This is very simple as you will need a DVD drive that can read all disk formats and write to all disk formats when need back up movies or music, choose a dual-layer DVD writer + R and R formats. The speed at which you write is entirely up to you, in general, more fast you can write to a disk will be more expensive. Be sure to choose one with a color that will match your case or if I stay like a sore thumb. In general, a good work DVD recorder to write all formats costs around £ 30. The composition of the DVD recorder I chose was a LiteOn. I had a lot of experience with this manufacturer of DVD and can tell you that they are good value for money.
Step - 7 Choose your graphics card.
If you have gone through the plate base with the graphics card then you can skip this part since it does not apply. If you choose to make a separate graphics card then I suppose is because they also intend to use your Media Center PC for games. With this option, the sky is the limit with graphics cards, other cards top it may cost more than all other components of the combined team. I have found from past experience that the cards cost around £ 120 brand usually perform very well with games and that will not break the bank. Do not forget, however, that the most powerful graphics card then usually gets hotter and colder that must be applied. Graphics cards are recognized for having the worst sound of cooling fans complain at its fair that takes you crazy. If you have elected to make a separate graphics card then it might be worth spending that bit more and buy a heatsink without a fan to go with him. This is the option I've gone to look and really will appreciate over the long term. It would also have different types of output on the card, such as S-Video, etc. as this to determine whether the card is compatible with current TV inputs.
Step - 8 Choose your power supply.
Power supplies in general, completely off much ado about the amount of power they have to face during the implementation of all components of your system. Remember that in general the power = heat = noise due to cooling. If you have an unlimited budget then I would say go to a fanless power supply as these are ideal, usually have large heatsinks and using heat pipe technology to dissipate heat. The downside of this is costing a small fortune for one that is good. My recommendation would be to a power supply with a fairly large power rating that is advertised as "silent" and includes a 120mm fan. Remember you need a source of energy that can provide more energy than the sum of the maximum power values of all components that comprise the system. My general experience with power supplies is that you can not really trust what it says on the box. If you say that it is quiet and costs £ 10, then what we find is that it is silent about a minute before turning it on, once you turn it on sounds like a small hovercraft! In order to achieve a near silent power supply using a large fan which really is a case of getting what you pay. In my opinion, you need to spend between £ 30 and £ 40 to get decent food, you might call silently unless you're feeling brave then you can do what they have done. I'm quite reluctant to spend money where I think I'm being cheated. In the case of sources decent food called "silent" I think people are charged more than the account of what is basically a bog standard power with a range a little better (no doubt someone pointed out to me the other factors justify energy sources cost more). With this in mind, I took the power supply silent "Qtec my 500W with 120mm fan that costs £ 15 (this power supply is about as far from silent as possible!) and the exchange of the fan for a truly silent Zalman fan Silenx Vario 120 mm Puresilence. Presto, a power very, very quiet and all that cost was £ 25 in total action and a little screwdriver!
* NOTE * If you change the fan from the power supply to one of the manufacturers' specifications then do so at your own risk. May cause fire and certainly will void the warranty. Not be liable for any damage that may occur due to malfunction of your power supply.
Step 9 - Select the cooling system.
Now this is a Biggy, which means cooling is therefore as possible, ie a series of case fans. But she is also as quiet as large as possible, ie the fans the best rotation, the larger = Slower fans (while still providing the same performance of air) = less noise. You also want to think about the exchange of standard heat sinks, that come with the processor, Northbridge chipset and graphics card for no fan. I chose a graphics card that comes with a fanless heatsink so was just a case of finding a suitable fanless heatsink for my processor and Northbridge. There are many options to choose from, but I opted for that SilentTower Thermaltake DCS cost £ 20 from Doncaster for my processor, since it works perfectly without a fan, but also lets you add 2 large fans for cooling 90mm extra if you want. For my northbridge I opted for the Zalman ZM-NB47J Silent Motherboard Heatsink for £ 6.00 which was QuietPC. Of course, if you are going to use fanless heatsinks in your configuration then this puts even more emphasis on the need for case fans, if you do not have adequate heat stroke in their case, then the heat of heat sinks will warm to all components of your system and thus compromises the performance, or worst case a component fails. This is the main reason he chose the Thermaltake Armor case, has shed loads of ventilation and provided with 2 x 120 mm and 2 x 90mm silent fans. If you need to buy silent fans I recommend the website of pure silence. I bought one of the silent 120mm fans on your site to replace the one in the supply of energy and can confirm they are deathly silence.
I also recommend that you buy a fan speed controller, this is a device that fits in usually one of the bays of 5.25 "drive in front of your PC, lets you control the exact speed of all fans, that is, you can make as silent PC as you like but also be able to ramp up all the fan speed if you need that little bit of cooling.
I opted for the Thermaltake Hardcano13 which costs 36.75 pounds of DCS Doncaster, since matched my case and also comes with a card reader boot.
Step 10 - Choose your TV tuner card.
There are many different options that you can go when choosing a TV tuner card. Some cards have only a single analog tuner, some have digital HDTV capability, some have 2 tuners on the same plate so you can watch 1 channel while recording another, and some are combinations of the above. You have to think of you same as you use your PC, it is just watching TV or intended to discharge any home videos from your camcorder in the short term, if the answer is yes, then you want some kind of AV input.
Given that television is all you have to switch to digital broadcasting in the United Kingdom and the advent of digital HDTV, I opted for the Dvico Fusion HDTV DVB Dual-T tuner which costs £ 114.95 from theglowlounge. This card comes with a well constructed distance works brilliantly, and also has AV input, you can read a detailed review of this card in johnsreviews.
Step 11 - Select your device control.
Now that you have chosen all the necessary components is time to choose the control devices. You have the option of classic television distance or can be really striking, and go on a full keyboard, media center, or both!
Microsoft produces good quality products for Windows Media Center, which of course are 100% compatible and require little in the way of creation. There are many other third-party products that are worth watching however, I decided to go for Logitech Cordless Desktop S 510 Media Remote, which at a cost of £ 49.99 on what used to be Dixons, the remote takes a little to the creation of customizable keys, but nothing too difficult, even if you have little experience with computers. What I like about this remote is that is smaller than most other controls a distancia de Media Center y se ha una rueda de desplazamiento única en el centro que le permite volar a través de los menús y las guías de televisión a velocidades increíbles! Most of the media center remote will work, it comes down to a matter of personal taste.
Step 12 - Assembly.
So is it that you choose all components, all set in front of you, but have not the faintest idea where to start. Well, I could spend another month to write pages and pages of instructions on how to install and configure each component of the PC for optimal performance, but I think the following videos can be explained so well and less time!
Note that instructional videos are applicable to the general construction of computers, but exactly the same principles apply to build a PC Home Theater.
About the Author
You can find more reviews and how to's by visiting John's Reviews
ive lost my driver disc 4 my Logitech dual action controller, need driver 4 free?
Logitech thinks you help or download the driver from the website without charge uo trying to buy or get a new driver up 2 date .... yawn
Heres the link for the driver software Logitech Dual is free. http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/support_downloads/downloads/&cl=gb in? selectedcrid = 411 & selectedcid = 288
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Review: Logitech Dual Action Gamepad
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