ATX Power Supply - The easiest way to fix it
I had stopped ATX power supply repair many years ago due the new cost very cheap. It is not worth repair because spare parts were sometimes more expensive than getting a new power supply. Looking for spare parts ATX power supply was not easy since many of them can not even find on the Internet. Not only that, many complicated and designed by different manufacturers Power had eaten our time troubleshooting precious also because of the need for time to understand how all these different energy designed operation of the source.
Some power supply designs using the PWM IC (UC3842) and power FET, some use transistors double, while some use only a single power IC on the primary side. Because the manufacturers want the design became a compact size, many secondary or even the power supply primary circuit board is mounted in a modular (Smaller board). This solution even more difficult problems because often the measuring probe can not reach the test point.
The real reason I had stopped repairing ATX power supply was the margin profit. If you charge customers high and buy a new unit with a guarantee of a given year. If you charge too low can result in the loss of hand because of Replaced parts, electricity, etc. If reasonable charge, the profit margin can not even cover their time devoted to troubleshooting it. I'm here not to discourage repair stop ATX power supply, however, if you have the time, have contacts to get cheap food components, easy access to many schematics and power supply etc then you can proceed to repair it.
Well back to the article, one of my clients had asked me to repair your ATX power supply. I told him to get a new one (as it was very cheap), but said he could not find one that fits your CPU client. I wanted a power supply that is equal to or smaller then the original specifications or above but all I could find power supply was a standard size!
As a favor to my client, I would do everything possible to help repair the power supply ATX. When the power switch on, measures were taken. The results were more tension. The line shot up 12 volt to 13 volts + and 5 volt line became 5.6 volts. After the cover is removed, I found the interior was very dirty and I was a cleaner and a brush to remove dirt. Then I saw four filter capacitors had swollen in the upper housing.
As you know, we as electronic repairers can not only see things in one hand, we see the other sides as well. What I mean is, trying to see if any suspect component that contributed to failure of the power supply and broken components, dry joints, loose joints, glue, etc. before starting decay and control of the suspect area.
What I saw was on the primary side were not some of the components covered with glue declined as shown in the image. I have to carefully remove it by scrapping layers the tail decay, preserving the outer layers of the components. Once that was done, I clean with diluent. decayed glue could cause serious problems or intermittent in electronics, it can be a driver.
If repair any ATX power supply, be sure to check the fan also because a power failure was due to heat caused by a faulty fan. The purpose of the fan is to suck all the heat generated by components within the power supply. For the fan to run without problems, you can service using a Philips spray oil base as shown in the photo.
Once four electrolytic capacitors are replaced and removed the rotten tail, then I have to connect to a junk motherboard along with a hard disk to test the performance of the source ATX power supply and measure all power production. It seems that the output voltage returns to normal. Once everything is OK then test work CPU to see if the screen.
The reason being tested with a junk motherboard for the first time as a way to not cause my motherboard good to go wrong if perhaps, if the output voltages is very high. Better safe than sorry later. Of course you can not test a power supply without charge otherwise can turn for a while and then shut off. If you do not have a junk motherboard can always connect at least one hard drive and a jumper cable to the connector to power the ATX power supply.
Do you know that most of the ATX power supply is using double Schottky barrier rectifiers to convert the alternating current wave DC voltages? Even in the LCD monitor power supply, dual Schottky rectification were used as well. For information, control the Schottky diode is different from normal control of a diode. With analog meter set to ohms X10 K, should show a reading of leak when doing reverse bias test. If this item becomes faulty it is very easy to get a replacement, of course you have to get one with the correct specification. That is all for today, hope you enjoy the article and come back often to check that there is no final repair techniques that I will share with you.
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Where I can plug the power cord from the monitor?
my LG monitor model T713SH FLATRONez and power cable has a label of 125v. where I connect? 110v or 220v? Custom-fitting my only outlet that fits in my AVR, where you can connect i 110v or 220? the cable has a label 125v
plug into wall. its just a standard outlet. 220 is not a
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